Here’s a brief description of some of the key terminology and ingredients used in skin care products. Hope you find it useful:
Alpha Hydroxy Acids: AHA’s are the combination of salicylic (beta acid), lactic acid (moisturizer) and glycolic acid (exfoliant). It is the optimum balancing combination to enhance your skins natural beauty. Salicylic acid unclogs pores and reduces oil production, lactic acid moisturizes, and glycolic acid exfoliates.
Amino Acids: A combination of organic molecules create amino acids which create the foundation for which proteins are built upon.
Antimicrobials: Substance that slows the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi.
Antioxidants: Otherwise known as free radical scavengers, antioxidants safeguard from the harmful effects of free radicals by neutralizing then releasing them. Natural occurring enzymes in the body, (such as A, B, C, and E vitamins, beta-carotene, and selenium) intercept free radicals and prevent them from damaging molecular structures.
Astringent: Meaning “to bind fast,” astringent constricts cellular tissues, reducing pores and minimizing oil production.
Botanical: Relating to plants, a cure created from any part of a plant, typically the bark, the root or leaves.
Carrier Oils: Also known as “base oil” or “vegetable oil” these oils are derived from vegetables and cold pressed. Their purpose is to dilute essential oils and assist in helping them penetrate pores.
Catechins: Derived from tea plants – when people mention the healthy benefits of wine, dark chocolate, and teas, this component is what they are referring to. Some experts contend that this should be classified as a vitamin and included into your daily diet because of its ability to fight aging, stroke, cancer, diabetes and heart failure. Catechins are also recommended when going through In Vitro fertilization.
Collagen: The main component that supports skin’s structure – this protein supports skin fibers, tendons, bones, cartilage and connective tissues.
Emollient: A lubricating thickening agent that prevents moisture loss and softens and soothes the skin.
Essential Oils: Essential oils are plant derivatives that offer therapeutic benefits when inhaled and applied topically. Essential oils in their pure form have proven antiseptic, antimicrobial, detoxifying, soothing, healing and regenerative powers.
Free Radicals: A highly reactive, oxygenated chemical that can damage vital healthy skin cells, such as lipids. Free radicals have been implicated in causing damage to the body, including premature aging and cancer. Free radical damage stems from pollution, UV rays, radiation and other environmental stressors.
Glycerin: An effective natural skin conditioner. In small concentrations, glycerin is a humectant – at high concentrations, it attracts moisture from the environment, allowing it to penetrate the skin. Glycerin is naturally produced in the product making process.
Humectant: Attracting moisture from natural glycerin in the air, humectants preserve and retain skin’s natural moisture.
Hyaluronic Acid: naturally produced in the body but depletes as you age. Helps keep skin moisturized, hydrated and ‘plump’.
Hypo-Allergenic: Hypo from ancient Greek meaning less than. Hypo Allergenic – less than allergenic – it is a term used on almost every skin and body care product. It is sort of a generic way to say that products are free of common allergens, toxic chemicals, nut oils, and ultimately “made for the skin.”
Lipids: Lipids are used in the form of natural fats, waxes and oils, for long-term energy storage, insulation and rebuilding. These are important in creating a barrier to sun damage, and the effects of the cold and pollution. They are especially recommended to people with either sensitive or dry skin. Essential fatty acids (Omega-3 or Omega-6), as well as ceramides are good examples of lipids.
Microbe: Defined as a simple, single-celled form of life that causes disease.
Mineral Oils: Commonly used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, these “white oils” are colorless, odorless, and tasteless and are free of nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen and aromatic hydrocarbons. Petroleum oils are inexpensive and widely used for their reliably anti-allergenic and moisturizing properties. When ingested, they interfere with the body’s ability to move natural vitamins and minerals. When used externally, mineral oils cause acne and leave thick residue on skin and hair.
Niacin (Vitamin B3): Plays an important function in boosting the elasticity of skin cells and helping them hold on to more moisture (making skin more plump).
Peptides: Combined amino acids create peptide bonds which create protein that maintain health of hair, nails and skin.
Propylene Glycol: Used as a thinner, this (usually) synthetic substance is used to extend usage of a product by increasing spread-ability. This ingredient is to be avoided by those with acne-prone skin.
Retinol: This is a source of ready-to-use Vitamin A. Not only does it help reverse sun damage, it removes dead skin cells and renews both the texture and tone of skin. (Be aware that it can be quite drying, so combining it with hyaluronic acid is a great way to rehydrate cells while still enjoying the benefits of retinol).
Sulfate: An artificial liquid derived from sulfated oils, sulfates are harmful to marine life and to the environment. Every time it is washed down your drain, this inorganic ion reaches natures water supply and inhibits natural water movement. The use of this chemical is implicated in the increase of acid rain, global dimming and global warming.
Surfactant (tensides): This active agent amplifies the foaming, dispersing, and spreading properties of a product. Surfactants, also known as “wetting agents,” lower the surface tension of a liquid, allowing easier spreading…they are typically not easily soluble.
Vitamin A: is probably the most popular vitamin nowadays due to its wrinkle-fighting proprieties. A star component of anti-aging creams, retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. However it is important to understand the difference between two common compounds, retinol and retinyl palmitat. Although they are commonly believed to be similar, it is important to know that retinyl palmitat causes less irritation but tends to be less effective than retinol.
Vitamin B: B vitamins are one of the best moisturizers out there due to the fact that they effectively lock in moisture in the skin cells. This wonderful characteristic is one of the main reasons these vitamins are also used for hair care products. There many forms in which B vitamins are found in various products. B3 is also known as niacin, B5 is known as pantothenic acid, B7 is known as Vitamin H or biotin. Those who have dry skin should definitely scan the labels for this vitamins as they improve the skin’s appearance and even have anti-aging properties.
Vitamin C: (L-Ascorbic Acid) is another ‘miracle vitamin’ that is used extensively in skin care products. Why? Because it helps cells produce collagen fibers, firming the skin, prevents aging by fighting free radicals and is even thought to help prevent sun damage. However, this vitamin is also the subject of various controversies due to the fact that it is highly unstable and it can become useless in contact with air. Cosmetic companies are doing their best to maintain the properties of this vitamin either by adding glycerin, to prevent its disintegration, or by opting for dark colored package. If you purchase a vitamin C serum, a concentration of about 20% is recommendable.
Vitamin E: (tocopherol) is also used for its amazing moisturizing properties. Vitamins C and E are often used in combination for two reasons: vitamin C prevents vitamin E disintegration and vitamin E counteracts some of the dryness vitamin C can cause.
Vitamin K: (phytonadione) is mainly used to combat dark under eye circles. However it should be noted that it is not recommended for pregnant women or for those who are taking blood thinning medication. It is also believed that a combo of retinol and vitamin K is effective at preventing aging around the eye area.
Volatile Oil: Plant derived and primarily used in cosmetics to add fragrance. These components most often include a mix of alcohols, ketones, phenols, linalool, borneol, terpenes, camphor, pinene, acids, ethers, aldehydes, and sulfur, all of which have extremely irritating and sensitizing effects on skin.